More than two thousand Greek and Latin graffiti carved on tombs in
the Valley of the Kings indicate the interest of classical travelers in
ancient Theban monuments two millennia ago. Even in dynastic times, the
Egyptians themselves had showed a fascination with Theban history, and
several kings boasted of conducting research and excavations in order to
accurately restore ancient monuments.
--> In classical
times, Diodorus Siculus described Thebes as a great city filled with
“huge buildings, splendid temples, and other ornaments ... more opulent
than the others in Egypt or anywhere else.” Even then, Theban monuments
were being carried back to Europe where they were admired for their
size, beauty and mysterious hieroglyphs.
But surprisingly, all that interest in Thebes, even the knowledge of
its location, disappeared from Europe for over fifteen hundred years.
From the fourth to the eighteenth century, almost no mention is made of
Thebes in European texts and there is no evidence that more than a
handful of Europeans even visited the site. This may have been due in
part to the inaccessibility of Upper Egypt for political or practical
reasons.
It was not until 1726 that a French Jesuit, Claude Sicard, relocated
and correctly identified Thebes. Other travelers followed. A Danish
engineer, Frederick Norden, drew sketches of Theban temples in the
1730s. At about the same time, an Englishman, Richard Pococke, drew a
map of the Valley of the Kings and briefly described eighteen tombs he
visited there. The accounts of Thebes
published by these early travelers and the Egyptian objects that made
their way into European collections once again fired the European
imagination. Tourism, exploration, and collecting slowly began to
revive.
James Bruce, for example, visited in 1769 and explored the tomb of
Rameses III in the Valley of the Kings. It became known as Bruce’s Tomb
after his publication of its scenes in 1790. Bruce also visited Madinat
Habu and wrote a description of the techniques ancient artists had used
to decorate its walls.
By far the most significant early expedition to Thebes was that of
Napoleon’s army, which arrived in Egypt in 1799. The 130 scholars that
accompanied the army were charged with making a detailed record of the
country. One of the French scholars, Vivant Denon, described the awe his
soldiers felt when they first saw Thebes: “At nine o’clock, in making a
sharp turn round the point of a projecting chain of mountains, we
discovered all at once the site of the ancient Thebes in its whole
extent; this celebrated city, the size of which Homer has characterized
by the single expression of ‘with a hundred gates’... The whole army,
suddenly and with one accord, stood in amazement at the sight of its
scattered ruins, and clapped their hands with delight.” Their work was
published between 1809 and 1828. Called the Description de l’Egypte, one
of its elephant folio volumes was devoted to drawings of Theban
monuments and provided the first accurate record of Theban sites to
appear in Europe. Hundreds of plates recorded architecture, relief
decoration, and painting in tombs and temples, and accompanying volumes
of text described what the scholars had seen. Even today, the
Description can profitably be consulted by scholars because much of what
it contains has vanished, victims of erosion, vandalism, and theft.
--> As interest in
ancient Egypt grew in Europe among scholars, decorators, and collectors,
other records of Theban monuments appeared. Jean-François Champollion,
who had published the key to the decipherment of hieroglyphs in 1822,
visited Thebes in 1828, accompanied by an Italian colleague, Ippolito
Rosellini. They recorded scenes and inscriptions in the Valley of the
Kings, Madinat Habu, the Ramesseum, and several nobles’ tombs. Emile
Prisse d’Avennes published a collection of elegant watercolors of tomb
paintings in 1847. Other artists, too, painted Thebes: Alma Tadema
(1836–1912), David Wilkie (1785–1841), Edward Lear (1812–1888), John
Frederick Lewis (1805–1876), and most importantly, David Roberts
(1796–1864). Some of them published very accurate paintings of Theban
monuments, others produced scenes of ancient Theban life that were
purely flights of fancy.
Of all the teams to record Thebes, the Prussian expedition of Carl
Richard Lepsius was the most ambitious and the most accurate. Lepsius
led an epigraphic expedition in 1842–1845. He spent much time at Thebes,
and his publication, Denkmäler aus Ägypten und Äthiopien (1849–1859),
immediately became an indispensable reference for scholars. Detailed and
remarkably accurate, it still is a primary research tool.
Giovanni Belzoni visited Thebes between 1816 and 1821. During the
course of digging in the Valley of the Kings, he discovered six tombs,
including those of Mentuherkhepshef, Ay, Rameses I, and Sety I. He also
worked in the memorial temples of Amenhetep III and Rameses II (the
Ramesseum) and carted off many objects to England, including several
huge statues. Belzoni’s techniques were primitive: “Every step I took, I
crushed a mummy in some part or other,” he wrote at one stage. But his
London exhibition of impressions from walls of the tomb of Sety I was
extremely popular and contributed greatly to ancient Egypt’s popularity.
So did the hugely successful book by Amelia Edwards, A Thousand Miles
up the Nile (1877), a beautifully-written personal account of Egypt and
its monuments.
The Englishman John Gardner Wilkinson worked at Thebes in 1824 and
1827–1828, recording with great skill scenes of daily life on the walls
of nobles’ tombs. The book he published, The Manners and Customs of the
Ancient Egyptians (1837), is a tour de force that reconstructs in
anthropological detail aspects of ancient life from kinship to cooking,
chronology to costume. It was also Wilkinson who first established the
numbering system still used today to identify tombs in the Valley of the
Kings. Later, Norman (1875–1941) and Nina de Garis Davies continued
this recording tradition, producing beautiful copies of private tomb
paintings. (The originals are now displayed in the Metropolitan Museum
of Art in New York). Meticulous and highly detailed epigraphic surveying
was developed by the Oriental Institute of the University of Chicago
and has been used by them at
Thebes since 1924 to record inscriptions and scenes in the temples of
Madinat Habu, Luxor, and other Theban monuments.
By late in the nineteenth century, photography was used to record
Theban monuments, first by such famous photographers as Francis Frith
and Maxime du Camp, later by the highly skilled photographers Felix
Guillmant and Harry Burton. The latter was the photographer for Howard
Carter’s clearing of the tomb of Tutankhamen.
Early excavations of Theban sites were rarely more than the careless
work of villagers or the hasty searches by Europeans for objects to
install in Europe’s many new museums. Richard Pococke complained of the
cavalier treatment of the monuments by local villagers: “They are every
day destroying these fine morsels of Egyptian Antiquity, and I saw some
of the pillars being hewn into millstones.” Champollion boasted that by
shipping Theban monuments back to France he was performing a noble act:
“One day you will have the pleasure of seeing some of the beautiful
bas-reliefs of the tomb of Osirei [Sety I] in the French Museum. That
will be the only way of saving them from imminent destruction and in
carrying out this project I shall be acting as a real lover of
antiquity, since I shall be taking them away only to preserve and not to
sell.” Other collectors included Henry Salt (1780–1827), whose
collections formed the core of several of Europe’s major museums, and
Bernardino Drovetti (1775–1852), who collected for the Louvre and the
museum in Turin.
These early collectors usually worked with the knowledge and
permission of the Egyptian government. But by 1858 it was clear that
greater control over Egypt’s antiquities was necessary if the sites were
to be protected. The Egyptian government, at the urging of Auguste
Mariette, a French scholar, established a national museum and shortly
thereafter, a national antiquities service. The export of antiquities
was not banned by the new service (that did not happen until the 1960s)
but it was more strictly controlled, and attempts were made to guard and
protect principal archaeological sites.
Over the next several decades, the new Antiquities Service employed
several committed and talented people. Eugène Lefébure (1838–1908), for
example, came to Egypt in 1881 after a career in the French Post Office.
Consumed by an interest in Egyptology, he set out to record the texts
in tombs in the Valley of the Kings. His two-volume publication, Les
Hypogées royaux de Thebes (1888), was the first attempt to
systematically record that famous site. A few years later, men like
Victor Loret devoted several seasons to the excavation of tombs in the
Valley of the Kings (in 1898–1899). Loret’s excavation techniques were
primitive by modern standards, but he and others added many more tombs
to those already known in the Valley of the Kings.
Since the mid-nineteenth century, the quality of archaeological work
at Thebes has been steadily improving. In the Valley of the Kings, for
example, one can cite the work of Edward Ayrton, Arthur Weigall, and
Howard Carter.
Carter (1874–1939), self-trained in England as an artist, had come to
Egypt in 1892 to work with Flinders Petrie. Seven years later, he was
appointed Chief Inspector of Antiquities in Upper Egypt and immediately
began work in the Valley of the Kings. His artistic talents and
insistence on meticulously recording what he uncovered set a high
standard. They served him well when, after a sometimes tumultuous career
in the Antiquities Service, Carter discovered the entrance to the tomb
of Tutankhamen in 1922. It is arguably the most famous archaeological
discovery ever made, and one that demanded almost infinite patience to
clear and record.
--> The French have
worked at Karnak almost continuously since 1899, the year part of the
great Hypostyle Hall collapsed due to weakened foundations. They have
undertaken excavation and publication as well as highly important
engineering and conservation projects. The Open-Air Museum at Karnak, in
which several important monuments have been reconstructed, is a tribute
to their admirable work.There have been other excavators whose work has
made significant contributions to our knowledge of ancientThebes.
Ernesto Schiaparelli (1856–1928) excavated the workmen’s village at Dayr
al-Madina, bringing to light thousands of ostraka that tell us more
about daily life in ancient Egypt than almost any other source. Uvo
Hölscher excavated around the memorial temple of Rameses III at Madinat
Habu in the 1930s, making it possible to trace in detail the history of
the Madinat Habu complex. Herbert Winlock and his colleagues from the
Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York worked in the Dayr al-Bahari
cirque from 1911 to 1932 on some of the most important excavations ever
made at Thebes.
Visitors to the West Bank of Thebes today can still see the
headquarters of these expeditions. Howard Carter’s original house stands
behind the offices of the antiquities inspectorate; his later house
lies in a grove of trees at the north end of the necropolis. German
House, reputedly burned down by the British at the start of World War I
and again at the start of World War II, has been rebuilt west of the
Ramesseum. The original Chicago House, headquarters of the University of
Chicago, is now the Marsam Hotel, behind the memorial temple of
Amenhetep III. (Its current headquarters are on the east bank of the
Nile, in Luxor.) Metropolitan House, headquarters of the Metropolitan
Museum of Art and later of the Polish Mission to Dayr al-Bahari stands
before the memorial temple of Dayr al-Bahari. The home of Norman and
Nina de Garis Davies lies about two
hundred meters to its west. The house of the American businessman
Theodore Davis, who funded many expeditions early in the twentieth
century, lies near the start of the dirt track into the West Valley of
the Kings, a satellite dish incongruously mounted beside the front
door.
Today, there are many projects working at Thebes, but few are there
to excavate. Instead, they are projects to record, clear, stabilize, and
conserve the fragile remains of its tombs and temples. Such measures
are overdue and the need for them is rapidly increasing. Over eight
thousand tourists visit the West Bank sites every day and that number is
expected to rise to twenty-five thousand per day within a decade. The
development of conservation measures and plans for site management are
urgently needed if ancient Thebes is to survive. Egyptologists are
finally aware of the serious threats to the monuments, and it is hoped
that these new projects will ensure that ancient Thebes will survive for
another five thousand years.
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